Three days in Asheville

A family trip

Quite a few people have told me they love Asheville, N.C. So far, I’ve made two trips there. Do I love it? Not exactly, though I definitely like it.

The first time was pre-pandemic, and checking out Asheville for a couple of days left me in a good mood with no complaints. I had a car so I got a good look around, hiked a little and relaxed. My impression was that Asheville, in the Blue Ridge Mountains, is a place with a lot of breweries (more than 30!), so it’s perfect if you like craft beer and the outdoors. Lots of friendly folks and an easy, hippie vibe. But for the largest city in western North Carolina, it didn’t seem very big, and not a place I thought I’d be seeing again.

One spot did stand out, and no, it wasn’t the Biltmore, even though every person I met told me to go. And maybe I did miss something extraordinary and grand, but I’ve seen a few Gilded Age mansions in Newport, R.I., and that was enough for me. Besides, adult admission starts at $79 in summer, and goes up through January.

Instead, I went to the Grove Park Inn. One of the Historic Hotels of America, it opened in 1913 and is named after Edwin Wiley Grove. A pharmacist, he went to the mountains to regain his strength since he was often ill. To help battle malaria, which was once common in the South, he created and patented a way to make quinine more palatable. Ultimately, he became a millionaire. The inn was planned by him as a hotel, and it is worth a visit.

The rustic lobby, referred to as the Great Hall, is all exposed wood and stone, with fireplaces at every turn and a huge 24-foot ceiling. I had lunch, a drink, strolled the grounds with its mountain view and enjoyed the ambience for the day, but at $400 or so a night, I didn’t stay over. I would have gotten a massage, but without reservations, had no luck. Better to plan this visit in advance.

In early July this year, I made a second trip to Asheville, N.C. This time was a little different. Same vibe and easy people, but I was with granddaughter, Skylar; daughter, Amy; and son-in-law, Jackson. I would be watching Skylar while her parents were attending friends’ wedding festivities, and I loved every minute of my time with this adorable child (who, I might add, was completely undetectable for the plane ride, both legs). Over the weekend, we worked on puzzles and played games, and did a bit of people watching from the window.

Our visit was only three days, and we were staying in the heart of downtown at the Lofts at Woolworth, renovated apartments in the restored F.W. Woolworth building. This was a perfect choice because we could walk everywhere — no car required, a good situation when traveling with a toddler. 

Our loft was spacious, with tall ceilings, industrial décor, exposed brick, a well-equipped kitchen and big windows for a perfect view of the busy sidewalk scene at the corner of Haywood Street and Battery Park.

Downstairs, the Woolworth Walk offers a plethora of individual galleries exhibiting some 170 local artists and crafters, where you can browse without pressure. When you get tired, have a milk shake or lunch at the Old Fashioned Soda Fountain that is a copy of the original.

We packed a lot into the schedule, especially considering we did it with a toddler and no car. 

The highlight of this trip was the Asheville Museum of Science, a short walk with a big payoff. We spent close to two hours at this compact, interactive and kid-friendly spot, with its exhibits of dinosaurs, minerals, water table, climate virtual display, landscape sand table, and I think everyone’s favorite, the forestry tree climb. We were blessed it was open on a rainy Sunday (closed Tuesday), since that was our big family day together. Perfect in every way for Skylar. All of us actually. Admission: $10, under 2 free.

Also on Sunday, I made a stop at the Basilica of St. Lawrence, built by Rafael Guastavino in 1909, arriving just in time for a tour. The interior dome is considered one of the larger freestanding elliptical domes in North America.

I read that there are more than 400 restaurants within a 3-mile radius, but we found a couple of good ones within a few blocks. What we didn’t find easily was a convenience store where we could get milk and fruit for Skylar. We eventually headed to Whole Foods, but on foot, it was a long walk.

Jackson was in the mood for some Carolina barbecue, and who wasn’t? So we got takeout from Buxton Hall BBQ, which was recommended by two separate parties. Good choice. My smoky fried catfish was about the best I’ve ever had, and I like catfish. Fresh, crispy coating, tender. Amy and Jackson had mixed platters — brisket, pulled pork, mac and cheese — and portions were big, but still not much was leftover. 

The other favorite was Chai Pani , a place I had heard of that serves Indian street food. A few other people also knew of it. It was jammed 5 minutes after opening with a line out the door.

Not your typical restaurant Indian food, but it has a few mainstream dishes for the non-experimental. Both Jackson and Amy said it was probably the best butter chicken they ever had, melt-in-your-mouth good. Chicken pakoras very tasty, too. Uttapam (crepes made from rice and lentil batter) are the specialty, but they weren’t calling to me, though now, I wish I had tried.

I managed to squeeze in a 60-minute facial at the Skin Spa in the Haywood Park Hotel which was right across the street. Definitely can recommend. Then grabbed some treats at the Chocolate Fetish next door. Beautiful antique display cases full of so many handmade choices, it’s hard to decide. Not cheap, but delicious. I went for the coated ginger. They ship nationwide.

It was a relaxing end to a fast family weekend that I will keep with me a long time.

So do I need a third trip to Asheville? Probably not, but that’s what I thought after the first time, too.