Like Indian food?
Go to Jaipore XPress in Ridgefield, a tiny restaurant with a big menu
I noticed Jaipore Xpress on Bailey Avenue in Ridgefield, Conn., a few months ago, but it took me a while to check it out. I love Indian food, so I can’t explain why it took so long, but I finally had lunch there last week, and now, it’s my new favorite Indian restaurant.
The tiny space is lovely, with cloth napkins and bright sun streaming through the windows. The tables are close, but comfortable. I did not feel crowded. There were several other diners, and service was perfect.
Because I didn’t have much time, I opted for the XPress lunch, offered Monday through Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., which is served with naan, rice, dal of the day and choice of entrée: vegetable ($14), chicken ($16) or lamb ($18). There are several choices of preparations for your entree (see photo). The portions are smaller than the regular menu portions, I was told by my server, but still I had plenty and took home a full container of rice and chicken.
I ordered one of my go-to Indian dishes, chicken tikka masala, a boneless barbecued chicken in a mild, smooth and delicious tomato and cream sauce. This dish is typically not spicy, and at a new place, I know what to expect. It did not disappoint. I spooned some tender chicken over the fluffy rice, and my mouth watered as I arranged the portions on my plate.
The cup of dal was smooth and delicious, and I used the spoon to taste it, and then the naan (bread) for dipping. This had a bit of heat, but not too much. Dal is an Indian staple, based on lentils, beans and/or peas, and I think it’s different every time I order it, no matter the restaurant. Honestly, not important. Dal of the day is good enough for me. I’ve made dal at home, too, it’s very warming, healthy (the turmeric) and pretty easy to make, especially if you take a shortcut with garam masala. You can even get packaged dal at Trader Joe’s. Or make some yourself. (I use the TJ refrigerated prepared lentils, rather than dried.) Recipe link later.
Back at the restaurant, two pieces of naan (a clay-oven baked white flour bread) were more than enough. It was warm and crispy, and one piece went into the to-go bag.
I know my judgment is based on one visit, but the five-star reviews on Yelp and Google back it up. Besides that, I asked my server if it was related to the renowned Jaipore Royal Indian Cuisine in Brewster, and he said yes, and that they had opened an Xpress in Westchester too, with one to come soon in Southington, Conn. Here’s the link to the Brewster location, an extraordinary house that was once home to the Charlie Chaplin Studios.
Jaipore XPress is a great find whether you’re new to Indian food or a serious foodie. The menu is extensive, with dishes mild and spicy, from chicken, lamb, goat and seafood to vegetarian, vegan and a few Indian street dishes, also called chaat, typically hand-held items served by vendors.
As I mentioned, I’ve dabbled in cooking Indian food, and spent a bit of time reading “Indian (-ish),” by Priya Krishna (actually spent more time reading this than cooking. No surprise there; I’m like an armchair traveler, only with cookbooks). This one is fun to have on the shelf and an education in Indian food and culture. Lots of anecdotes about her family, tips about ingredients and where to get them, and beautiful art and photos. The cover of her book (below) sets the mood: it’s light and approachable.
Here’s Priya’s basic dal recipe from “Today.” My basic version is a lot simpler. Heat TJ’s prepared lentils with some jarred masala sauce (many supermarkets have this). Spice it up to your own taste, adding garam masala, turmeric, chili powder. I like to add some chickpeas, too.
And at this point, I have to shout out to my friend R. who cooks the best Indian food I have ever had. From scratch. Last time I was at her house, she packed a little bag of fresh spices for me to take home.