Happy holidays . . .
and a mid-century throwback
So Dear Reader (have always wanted to write that, and I thank you for reading), we are in that holiday time when some days are happy, others not so much. A very different time from years past when my biggest worry (and maybe yours?) was how to fit into that outfit I wanted to wear to the (office, neighborhood, book club, pick one) Christmas party. I am happy for you if that remains your biggest concern, and I wish it was mine. But once again, Covid is casting a pall over all things fun, just as the celebrations would be starting.
I am grateful things are not as bad as they were a year ago, when even small family gatherings were discouraged. I am grateful for the Christmas cards I have received, which are more meaningful now when we don’t get together much anymore. And I am grateful just to be here today, writing this blog, sharing my thoughts with you, and looking forward to a brilliant new year when everything falls into place and Covid fades to the background.
Today, though I do have a brief hair update (next time), I am going in a completely different and happy direction that is always associated with holidays: food. I am not saying I am a food writer, although I have my share of bylines from the old days, when newspapers were a thing, and the Wednesday food sections were loaded with ads, coupons, stories and recipes. But I like cooking, and eating and writing, so here I am.
I am glad to see Ruth Reichl, one of my favorite food writers, is also here on substack, sharing both old and new thoughts. I enjoy both her content and style, and one of her recent posts, An Ode to Eggs, has inspired me to write about deviled eggs myself. Now I don’t mean to go up against one of the greatest food writers of all time, and I am sure her version is better than anything I could make, but I feel the joy of deviled eggs is that they are simple to make, in addition to being tasty and inexpensive. Even considering inflation, eggs (at about $4 a dozen), are a cheap protein-packed, low-calorie food, and you can make them as deviled (spicy) and fancy, or not, as you please.
If you take a look at her recipe, you will see what I mean. I love reading about all the possibilities she offers; I just don’t think you need a food processor, pastry bag, or any kind of special eggs. Here’s what I do. Old eggs or new, it’s a basic method that almost always results in eggs that peel very easily. I steam them. It has worked well for years, and I don’t miss the way eggs would lose half their whites after boiling in water. (I just cooked 12 this morning, and only one gave me the tiniest bit of trouble, and even that one was usable.)
Place a collapsible steaming basket in a pot or pan large enough so that the eggs will not be on top of each other, add a couple inches of water to the bottom and bring to a boil. Place eggs on basket, and steam on medium heat for 12-14 minutes. Remove eggs and place in ice water for15 minutes. When cool, crack eggs gently. The shell should slide off, and eggs will be easy to handle. These are delicate, so take your time. Cut in half lengthwise and carefully remove yolk with a spoon. Mash the yolks with a fork, add mayonnaise and mustard to taste. (I like honey mustard.) Salt, pepper. If you feel they are too stiff, cheat by adding a squirt of canned light whipped cream. Personalize this any which way you like. I know cayenne is a standard, but a dash of Heinz 57 works just great; I like the little zip and color it adds. You might try adding barbecue, cocktail or taco sauce, even horseradish for real zing, or relish. How you season the yolks depends on you and your audience. Kids might like them sweet (try Trader Joe’s Sweet Chili Sauce); adults might like spicy. It’s all up to you.
Set eggs on a platter nesting with some lettuce underneath to steady them. Deviled eggs are such a mid-century throwback (at least for me), you can dress them up and serve as an hors d’oeuvres should you be lucky enough to have family or friends visiting this year. Finish with a sprinkle of some diced salad shrimp, parsley, scallions, or sliced olive. I always try to have olives on hand. You never know when you’ll have the urge for a nice dirty martini.
Cheers and happy holidays!
