Beer, eats in Delaware Beaches. . .
and time to head home
So it’s time to pack.. feeling both sad to leave and excited to get home.
Last night there was a deluge, but days have been 60s-80s, and it will be hard to transition to cold, gray November. Besides that, I’ll be missing the Sea Witch Festival (one of HGTV’s 21 Great Fall Festivals https://www.hgtv.com/lifestyle/travel/best-fall-festivals-pictures), though going without a kid to a festival is like going to the Blessing of the Animals without a pet. Just not right.
I decided if I’m missing Sea Witch, I may as well get my hair conditioned. I realize this is practically a non sequitur in terms of activities, but have heard Olaplex is a good if pricey conditioning treatment. Pure Bliss Salon offers it, and my hair is in need. How can it be bad. . . famous last words, right?
Big news – my feet are better! I won’t say 100%, but, as they ask on every PT visit, on a pain scale of 0 (none) to 10 (major), I think I started at 8 and would say now I’m at 2 or maybe 1.5? Advice from therapist: continue strength and stretching exercises. Agreed.
Now on the mend, I got my third Covid shot, another Moderna. The easy-going pharmacist made me feel comfortable about the whole thing, and afterwards, I felt a bit tired, with mild headache and sore, swollen arm for a day, but that’s it.
This is a good place to mention there’s an ease about the people here and the area that is known for its tolerance of all persuasions. It’s a culture where people smile easily, cars give pedestrians (and other cars) the right-of-way, and folks are quick to help and give directions. It’s been good, and far less populated now than during summer when the numbers for the town of Rehoboth Beach jump. According to USAToday:
“Even on cool fall and spring days you'll find die-hard fans of the seaside walking along the water's edge on Rehoboth Beach, but in the heat of the summer, this Atlantic Ocean beach is booming. The population of the town (also called Rehoboth Beach) jumps from 1,500 to more than 25,000.”www.usatoday.com/story/travel/destinations/2017/07/13/delaware-beaches/473195001/
And the coat? I fell out of love, oh, it happens. But on the rebound bought what I call my “watercolor raincoat.” A splash of vibrancy and not shy, but way more practical. About the same price, and also at Funky Lady. I’ve already worn it a couple of times on drizzly days, and probably will wear it on the ferry back. A good kind of souvenir.
What’s left to say? The beer! I’m no expert, but even an expert would find some good brew here. Go to Cape May Lewes Ferry, www.cmlf.com for ferry info and a brief brewery roundup. There are quite a few so I narrowed down my research:
Dogfish Head, a big presence. Dogfish Head was the start of the area’s craft beer scene. Several locations, with the brewery and distillery about 5 miles north of Lewes in Milton.
About 30 brews on tap here and the free tour includes a coupon for a flight at the bar. Mild Namaste (wheat) and Cloud-based Reality (pale ale) called to me and were tasty. Beers are released every year, with an R&D selection offered only here. Don’t like beer? Go for the house-made cocktails and spirits.
I was curious why Dogfish Head calls itself “off-centered.” One of the brewers gave me this example: SeaQuench Ale started with an idea that its salinity should match that of Chesapeake Bay. Is this true? I don’t know, but I like it. . . definitely salty, in a good way that makes you want more, a margarita-type taste and appropriately served on the ferry. I have some packed (along with Slightly Mighty, the best low-cal beer I have ever had, seriously).
Then there’s the Steampunk Treehouse on the patio. The 40-foot-tall sculpture that stood at Burning Man in 2007 was re-homed here, so the visitor can appreciate art, drink beer and enjoy lunch the same time. Casual food, pizza, etc. The pulled pork sandwich was yummy, maybe it was the toasted cumin vinaigrette? Finally, the name. Story goes: First, there really is a shark named dogfish, and the family had a connection to Dogfish Head, Maine. Are there a lot of dogfish heads there? I don’t know that either, but family support for the beer project hinged on use of that name. So there you have it, which also explains Chesapeake & Maine, another Dogfish Head restaurant in Rehoboth. This is the place for cocktails. Dinner only. (Go for happy hour 4-6 p.m.Drinks, beer $5. Select oysters $1.) Thumbs up on food at all Dogfish locations. https://www.dogfish.com/
Revelation, a much smaller brewery, sits quietly on a side street in Rehoboth, a place for good pizza and choice of some 20 different beers. (Sussex County Mule was my pick.) Low-key, not commercial and near the Breakwater-Essex trail. Revelation is also served in-season at the Hudson Fields Beer Garden on the corner of Route 1 and Eagle Crest Road in Milton, and sadly I missed my chance here. Revbeer.com for more info.
Finally, Big Oyster. I skipped the brewery and instead went to Fins Ale Bar (two locations in Rehoboth) finsrawbar.com that’s associated with Big Oyster for the best crab cake sandwich and lots of brew selections. https://www.bigoysterbrewery.com.
A few other favorite eateries, all in Lewes:
I really liked hanging at the Station on Kings for cappuccino and wifi. Gourmet market with tables set in the nursery. It’s like dining in a garden. Coffee bar, breakfast and lunch. https://thestationlewes.com/
Agave for Mexican and some outstanding margaritas. Mahi-mahi fish tacos. No outdoor dining, but I think it was worth the risk, and that was before the third Covid shot. https://www.agavelewes.com/
Kindle for steak and wine or a nice drink. It’s a bit upscale, “American fare with French influence.” The filet mignon sandwich, autumn salad and a light cosmo hit the spot, and dinner was a nice way to spend my last night with an old friend and tennis partner. Dinner only. 4-9 p.m. https://www.kindlerestaurant.com/
It was great to meet up with both old friends and new ones on this journey (you know who you are), and a special thanks to my host H and her Mr. Golden for the warm welcome, awesome hospitality and beach adventures.
Hope to see you next time with a report on Olaplex and return to real life at home in New York.
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Debra